When we decided to go to India, we had mixed feelings. We had read and heard so much about the rip-off of the Indians, the catastrophic hygienic conditions and the apparently inevitable stomach problems. We are all the happier that we were able to make an impression for ourselves. Yes, India has challenges for everyone and can sometimes push you to your limits. We summed up after 30 days: India was much better than expected ! It has a lot to offer and the disasters described above are easy to avoid. We can imagine (and would like to) travel to India again because there is so much more to discover in this country :)
If you do not live near an Indian embassy, you can also send your form and photo, including your passport, by post and have it sent to you in the prepaid envelope. The procedure may then take a little longer.
But even the most spontaneous can enter India. You can apply for an e-visa and travel through India for 30 days . The cost for this is around € 50. The visa can be applied online up to 4 days in advance and will then be issued upon arrival. It is important that you can only enter once and the visa is valid from the date of entry. The exact procedure is explained on the website of the Indian government .
We spent a total of € 1487 over the 30 days in India, which corresponds to a daily budget of € 24.78 per person . So we were right on target of € 25 a day. You can see what we spent the money on in our graphic.
You can travel to India even more cheaply by using cheaper accommodation and staying in dormitories. The cleanliness of the room was important to us and our privacy too;) You could also save on food, since main courses in the small restaurants on the street are often available for less than € 2. We have avoided this for our stomachs for a long time.
train
Train travel in India is a thing in itself! Again and again you read that it is part of a trip to India and so we did not want to miss the fun. We found traveling on the train to be very relaxed and have summarized the most important information about train travel in India for you in an extra article.
bus
Despite the fact that we had heard a lot of negative things about driving a bus before we went to India, we used the local buses again and again and came to the conclusion that it was great ! We usually took the state buses (recognizable by the sign on the front of the bus) and once - somewhat involuntarily - had a night trip on the bus, which was also surprisingly good. In contrast to Nepal , the buses didn't feel so crowded and much more comfortable. The prices were fixed and very, very cheap.
Rickshaw / Tuktuk
There is actually always and everywhere a motorized vehicle with an Indian who greets you with "Hello my friend" and would love to go somewhere. The mopeds are pimped with a body on which two people can take a seat. There were also three or four of us squeezing in there. The most important thing for the trips with the Tuktuk: negotiate the price beforehand! Otherwise you are at your destination and suddenly the previously nice driver demands horrendous prices. We always found the trips themselves exciting because there is always something to see in Indian traffic and the Tuktuk drivers everywhere find tiny gaps through which they can push themselves to get to their destination as quickly as possible. We still felt safe on the trips.
By the way, our favorite products were the electrical ones. They were so quiet and didn't produce any exhaust fumes. We often held a cloth or our shirt in front of our mouths when we rickshawed in big cities because the smog made it difficult to breathe. All the better to sit in a vehicle that does not pollute the air anymore!
plane
We had a domestic flight from Delhi to Kochi in India , which we had booked locally via the Internet. The flight cost us about € 75 per person and even included food. What surprised us negatively: You can only enter Delhi Airport four hours before departure. We were there much earlier and had to wait in a small waiting room. Because of the smog, our plane was finally another two hours late, which is probably the case more often in Delhi.
Lucknow
After a very humble night in a completely overpriced and dirty hotel room, we moved to the Lucknow Homestay . Although we showed up without prior notice, a room was organized for us. The hosts are really nice and have a lot of good tips in store. The rooms are very spacious, some with private bathrooms, some with shared bathrooms. Breakfast is included in the price (1000 rupees, 14 €). The homestay is located just outside the city.
Agra
In Agra we stayed in the Zostel * for four nights and felt very comfortable there! We paid 1000 rupees (14 €) for our double room. There are great common areas, good WiFi and the staff were really nice. We met nice travelers and ate there often. Highly recommended!
Bharatpur
We stayed two nights at the Sanctuary Tourist Lodge and were the only guests at the time. We had a large double room with a very clean bathroom. Our host took great care of us, helped us with the onward journey and lent us binoculars for the Keoladeo bird park. Super room for the price of 750 rupees (€ 10).
Jaipur
Two travelers recommended the Hathroi Guesthouse * in Jaipur. The best thing was definitely the great roof terrace with cozy chill corners. Our room was stuffy, had no window and the bed was rather uncomfortable. For the price of 980 rupee (€ 13) it was okay, but it was one of the more uncomfortable ones.
Jaisalmer
Thanks to the great reviews on Booking.com, we ended up at the Hotel Fotyia * . For only 450 rupees per night (6 €) we had a large double room with a clean bathroom. From the roof terrace we had a magnificent view of the fortress and also got cheap food there. The host went out of his way to help us, a really personable guy! We were picked up from the bus stop when we arrived and because our train was leaving so early and there was no Tuktuk nearby, we were also taken to the train.
Jodhpur
In Jodhpur we had the best place to stay in Rajhastan! In the Namaste Café * we stayed in one of the 5 guest rooms, which are extremely large! We spent the first two nights in the room without air conditioning, the second in the room with (the other was fully booked). The bathroom was super clean, had a great shower and the WiFi was the best so far. For 900 rupees (€ 12.50) we thought it was really great and for breakfast we can recommend the cereal with fruit salad;)
Kochi
In the CL Dreams Homestay * in Kochi we ended up in a cozy double room with a nice Indian family. The room and bathroom were clean and well prepared! For a cheap 150 rupees we got a breakfast in the morning that was impressive! Be sure to try the typical Kerala breakfast too! Our host organized tickets for a Kathakali dance performance for us and we could borrow cheap bicycles from him (100 rupees per day, € 1.40!) With which we explored Kochi. We paid 1000 rupees (€ 14) for our room.
Alleppey
Only 50 meters from the beach is the Sea Breeze Beach Homestay * , where we spent three nights. A simple breakfast (for only 100 rupees) was served in the morning on the roof terrace, from which you could enjoy the sea view. The room was clean, big enough and really great for the price of 850 rupees (€ 12).
We also tried Kofta, Kachauri and Pakora . Much of it was flavorful and spicy, but the vendors were happy to help you and sell less spicy treats. However, it is also less important to interpret;) If you want to see more street food, you can find a lot in our video from Jodhpur or Jaisalmer . We found the spices to be at least as exciting as the street food stands. Chillies were stored in huge straw bags and so many more. The smells were amazing!
Overall, we have eaten very little meat in India . This is because the Indians do not eat cows due to their religion and often do not eat pigs either. And the chickens that end up in the food are not, like ours, nicely filleted and free of bones. Everything that comes with the animal comes in. That's why we often opted for the vegetarian version, which was always delicious!
And the Indians actually have many delicious alternatives to German bread. We ate warm kulcha , a kind of puff pastry bread that tasted a bit sweet. Chapati or Naan are often added to the curry dishes . Naan is also often served with cheese or garlic and always tastes great!
In fact, the Indian caste system has been officially abolished to ensure more equality. Actually. Inappropriately, this caste affiliation is deeply rooted in Indian society and cannot be abolished so easily. So you still belong to your caste, but there are now quotas for the caste. At universities, schools, at elections, when buying train tickets or even on the job, there is a quota for lower castes, in order to offer people the opportunity to attend good universities, etc.
For us as tourists it was not clear who belongs to which caste. But first in general: There are four main castes into which Indians are born (the Brahmin priestly caste is the top one, the Shudra the lowest one). In addition, there are another 495 boxes , which are then divided into sub-boxes. Belonging to the caste cannot be changed and if you want to get married in India, it is imperative that the caste and the sub-caste match. Insane or?
Lucknow
This is where the journey to India started for us. The place was intended to arrive and get used to after arriving overland from Nepal. The tour through the old town was a highlight, but again we would not spend five whole days there.
Taj Mahal and Agra
The most beautiful building in the world , we wanted to see and took queue and high ticket price in purchase to throw a glance at close to it. It's worth it despite the tourist crowds! In addition, Agra has other attractions to offer. It is worthwhile not only to come here briefly as part of a day trip from Delhi, but also to spend two or three days.
Jaipur
We didn't really get warm with Jaipur. The city was very big, the tourist attractions were quite expensive and we were annoyed. The fortress is said to be quite beautiful. We looked at the streets of the "Pink City" and found the range of spices, household goods, paper and jewelry to be beautiful.
Jaisalmer
We felt right at home in Jaisalmer. The desert city had a good size and a great fortress . On several days we strolled through the many houses that are still inhabited today. A highlight of the whole trip to India was definitely the camel safari in the desert! We would do it again and again and recommend it.
Best time to go to India
In general, the period from December to March is seen as the main season in India . The weather is often pleasant - we had around 25 degrees in Rajhastan, in the south the temperatures and humidity are slightly higher. Towards the end of the year, however, it gets pretty cool in the higher regions. From April the temperatures rise steadily and the air humidity becomes significantly higher. In return, the prices in the accommodations drop. In addition, there is often monsoon rain in summer and autumn, which likes to rain down on the southeast coast. Northern India is best visited between July and September .Entry to India - visa regulations and entry via land
In order to travel to India as a German, you need a visa. We applied for our visa before our trip to Germany and were issued at the Indian embassy in Hamburg. To do this, we first had to register on a website and answer many, many questions ( this PDF is very helpful for filling out the form). This completed form is a prerequisite for applying for a visa, you do not need to go to the embassy beforehand! Then there is a passport photo , but the dimensions are differentthan our biometric demands. Together with the printed form, the passport photo and our passport we went to the Indian embassy, left € 60 there and were able to pick up our multi-entry visa over 6 months after just a few days . Important: the visa is valid from the date of issue ! So you shouldn't apply for it too long before your planned trip.If you do not live near an Indian embassy, you can also send your form and photo, including your passport, by post and have it sent to you in the prepaid envelope. The procedure may then take a little longer.
But even the most spontaneous can enter India. You can apply for an e-visa and travel through India for 30 days . The cost for this is around € 50. The visa can be applied online up to 4 days in advance and will then be issued upon arrival. It is important that you can only enter once and the visa is valid from the date of entry. The exact procedure is explained on the website of the Indian government .
Our daily budget in India
In India we pay with the Indian rupee and at the time of our trip (November 2016) we got 70 rupees for a € uro. As a rule, you can easily withdraw cash from the many ATMs on site, because almost everywhere you can pay with cash. However, there was a financial crisis during our stay in India, which made it very difficult for us to get cash. Since the end of 2016 there have been no more 1000 rupee notes, instead new 2000 notes have been introduced and the old 500 notes have been replaced by new ones. In addition, there are notes worth 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 rupees. Coins are worth 1.2 and 5 rupees.We spent a total of € 1487 over the 30 days in India, which corresponds to a daily budget of € 24.78 per person . So we were right on target of € 25 a day. You can see what we spent the money on in our graphic.
You can travel to India even more cheaply by using cheaper accommodation and staying in dormitories. The cleanliness of the room was important to us and our privacy too;) You could also save on food, since main courses in the small restaurants on the street are often available for less than € 2. We have avoided this for our stomachs for a long time.
Transport / local transport - this is how you can get around in India
We mostly found traveling on site to be uncomplicated and safe. On our route we used a variety of means of transport that always brought us safely to our destination. At a glance you can see what we have used and how often.train
Train travel in India is a thing in itself! Again and again you read that it is part of a trip to India and so we did not want to miss the fun. We found traveling on the train to be very relaxed and have summarized the most important information about train travel in India for you in an extra article.
bus
Despite the fact that we had heard a lot of negative things about driving a bus before we went to India, we used the local buses again and again and came to the conclusion that it was great ! We usually took the state buses (recognizable by the sign on the front of the bus) and once - somewhat involuntarily - had a night trip on the bus, which was also surprisingly good. In contrast to Nepal , the buses didn't feel so crowded and much more comfortable. The prices were fixed and very, very cheap.
Rickshaw / Tuktuk
There is actually always and everywhere a motorized vehicle with an Indian who greets you with "Hello my friend" and would love to go somewhere. The mopeds are pimped with a body on which two people can take a seat. There were also three or four of us squeezing in there. The most important thing for the trips with the Tuktuk: negotiate the price beforehand! Otherwise you are at your destination and suddenly the previously nice driver demands horrendous prices. We always found the trips themselves exciting because there is always something to see in Indian traffic and the Tuktuk drivers everywhere find tiny gaps through which they can push themselves to get to their destination as quickly as possible. We still felt safe on the trips.
By the way, our favorite products were the electrical ones. They were so quiet and didn't produce any exhaust fumes. We often held a cloth or our shirt in front of our mouths when we rickshawed in big cities because the smog made it difficult to breathe. All the better to sit in a vehicle that does not pollute the air anymore!
plane
We had a domestic flight from Delhi to Kochi in India , which we had booked locally via the Internet. The flight cost us about € 75 per person and even included food. What surprised us negatively: You can only enter Delhi Airport four hours before departure. We were there much earlier and had to wait in a small waiting room. Because of the smog, our plane was finally another two hours late, which is probably the case more often in Delhi.
Spend the night in India
We usually booked our overnight stays in India online a day or two in advance . For this we used booking.com *, which offer good deals online and are often cheaper than when you book locally in a hotel or guesthouse. We paid an average of two € 10 for our accommodations and had clean double rooms. In larger dormitories you can certainly save half again.Lucknow
After a very humble night in a completely overpriced and dirty hotel room, we moved to the Lucknow Homestay . Although we showed up without prior notice, a room was organized for us. The hosts are really nice and have a lot of good tips in store. The rooms are very spacious, some with private bathrooms, some with shared bathrooms. Breakfast is included in the price (1000 rupees, 14 €). The homestay is located just outside the city.
Agra
In Agra we stayed in the Zostel * for four nights and felt very comfortable there! We paid 1000 rupees (14 €) for our double room. There are great common areas, good WiFi and the staff were really nice. We met nice travelers and ate there often. Highly recommended!
Bharatpur
We stayed two nights at the Sanctuary Tourist Lodge and were the only guests at the time. We had a large double room with a very clean bathroom. Our host took great care of us, helped us with the onward journey and lent us binoculars for the Keoladeo bird park. Super room for the price of 750 rupees (€ 10).
Jaipur
Two travelers recommended the Hathroi Guesthouse * in Jaipur. The best thing was definitely the great roof terrace with cozy chill corners. Our room was stuffy, had no window and the bed was rather uncomfortable. For the price of 980 rupee (€ 13) it was okay, but it was one of the more uncomfortable ones.
Jaisalmer
Thanks to the great reviews on Booking.com, we ended up at the Hotel Fotyia * . For only 450 rupees per night (6 €) we had a large double room with a clean bathroom. From the roof terrace we had a magnificent view of the fortress and also got cheap food there. The host went out of his way to help us, a really personable guy! We were picked up from the bus stop when we arrived and because our train was leaving so early and there was no Tuktuk nearby, we were also taken to the train.
Jodhpur
In Jodhpur we had the best place to stay in Rajhastan! In the Namaste Café * we stayed in one of the 5 guest rooms, which are extremely large! We spent the first two nights in the room without air conditioning, the second in the room with (the other was fully booked). The bathroom was super clean, had a great shower and the WiFi was the best so far. For 900 rupees (€ 12.50) we thought it was really great and for breakfast we can recommend the cereal with fruit salad;)
Kochi
In the CL Dreams Homestay * in Kochi we ended up in a cozy double room with a nice Indian family. The room and bathroom were clean and well prepared! For a cheap 150 rupees we got a breakfast in the morning that was impressive! Be sure to try the typical Kerala breakfast too! Our host organized tickets for a Kathakali dance performance for us and we could borrow cheap bicycles from him (100 rupees per day, € 1.40!) With which we explored Kochi. We paid 1000 rupees (€ 14) for our room.
Alleppey
Only 50 meters from the beach is the Sea Breeze Beach Homestay * , where we spent three nights. A simple breakfast (for only 100 rupees) was served in the morning on the roof terrace, from which you could enjoy the sea view. The room was clean, big enough and really great for the price of 850 rupees (€ 12).
Indian food
Here we faced a very big challenge: Franzi does not like curry so much and does not tolerate spicy food. Exactly, it is rather difficult in India! Franzi did not starve, tried new things and above all: there were no major gastrointestinal problems . In India! We can probably thank the probiotic capsules that we took every day to protect our intestines. And Nepal was probably also a good preparation for hygiene.Street food in India
We always followed the basic rule when eating in India: eat nothing raw or unpeeled , drink no tap water . For shakes, drinks with ice cubes or the like, we always asked whether tap water was used and so we got through quite well. Ultimately, we ate more and more food from street stalls and then made sure that they were stalls that were well attended. The street stalls mainly serve fried food. Our favorites were definitely the samosas , filled dough triangles, which you could buy almost everywhere.We also tried Kofta, Kachauri and Pakora . Much of it was flavorful and spicy, but the vendors were happy to help you and sell less spicy treats. However, it is also less important to interpret;) If you want to see more street food, you can find a lot in our video from Jodhpur or Jaisalmer . We found the spices to be at least as exciting as the street food stands. Chillies were stored in huge straw bags and so many more. The smells were amazing!
Indian curries
In addition, India is of course famous for its many curry dishes . The variety is great, the taste is always a bit different and we have tried a few. We had the best curry in Kochi in Mary's Kitchen. The mango shrimp curry was so delicious that we went back the next day and ate it again.Overall, we have eaten very little meat in India . This is because the Indians do not eat cows due to their religion and often do not eat pigs either. And the chickens that end up in the food are not, like ours, nicely filleted and free of bones. Everything that comes with the animal comes in. That's why we often opted for the vegetarian version, which was always delicious!
Breakfast in India
The most difficult thing to find in other countries is breakfast . Our German bread rolls or a delicious muesli simply cannot be obtained so quickly. Either we helped each other with pancake or we got a delicious cereal in India. However, this is the tourist variant. In Kerala we also dared to have a traditional breakfast and got Appam (rice cake) with egg masala curry. When there was rice pancakes filled with coconut and sugar the next day, we were finally convinced that India also offers great options for breakfast.And the Indians actually have many delicious alternatives to German bread. We ate warm kulcha , a kind of puff pastry bread that tasted a bit sweet. Chapati or Naan are often added to the curry dishes . Naan is also often served with cheese or garlic and always tastes great!
The Indian box
You can write entire books on Indian society with its castes and we have certainly only acquired a fraction of the knowledge about it. Our knowledge comes mainly from a young Indian who told wonderfully self-deprecatingly about Indian society and gave us an insight into the confusing caste system for us.In fact, the Indian caste system has been officially abolished to ensure more equality. Actually. Inappropriately, this caste affiliation is deeply rooted in Indian society and cannot be abolished so easily. So you still belong to your caste, but there are now quotas for the caste. At universities, schools, at elections, when buying train tickets or even on the job, there is a quota for lower castes, in order to offer people the opportunity to attend good universities, etc.
For us as tourists it was not clear who belongs to which caste. But first in general: There are four main castes into which Indians are born (the Brahmin priestly caste is the top one, the Shudra the lowest one). In addition, there are another 495 boxes , which are then divided into sub-boxes. Belonging to the caste cannot be changed and if you want to get married in India, it is imperative that the caste and the sub-caste match. Insane or?
Travel tips for India
Our route: 30 days in IndiaLucknow
This is where the journey to India started for us. The place was intended to arrive and get used to after arriving overland from Nepal. The tour through the old town was a highlight, but again we would not spend five whole days there.
Taj Mahal and Agra
The most beautiful building in the world , we wanted to see and took queue and high ticket price in purchase to throw a glance at close to it. It's worth it despite the tourist crowds! In addition, Agra has other attractions to offer. It is worthwhile not only to come here briefly as part of a day trip from Delhi, but also to spend two or three days.
Jaipur
We didn't really get warm with Jaipur. The city was very big, the tourist attractions were quite expensive and we were annoyed. The fortress is said to be quite beautiful. We looked at the streets of the "Pink City" and found the range of spices, household goods, paper and jewelry to be beautiful.
Jaisalmer
We felt right at home in Jaisalmer. The desert city had a good size and a great fortress . On several days we strolled through the many houses that are still inhabited today. A highlight of the whole trip to India was definitely the camel safari in the desert! We would do it again and again and recommend it.
Useful tips for your trip to India
- Act, act, act! There is always something going on - and then more;)
- We always had a roll of toilet paper with us, which is rarely found on toilets. Alternatively, you can get used to the Indian way of cleaning: with a shower jet.
- Do not drink tap water, do not eat unpeeled or raw fruit.
- On appropriate dress watch (women should cover shoulders and knees).
- Get involved in talks with the Indians - not every seller wants to take everything from you, many are really friendly.
- Indians like to take photos with strangers, especially if they have fair skin and are tall (and compared to Indians, we Germans are actually always tall!). We have often agreed to this because it does not hurt us.
- A SIM card to get for your phone is sometimes not so easy in India. You need an Indian contact for this, which you have to specify. With us, the friendly employee of the Vodafone shop held out for it and immediately took another picture because we didn't have a passport photo with us.
